03 to 08 January 2011

51 Miles on Foot

It’s a luxury problem, sitting here depressed after the end of a fantastic 6 day trek along the Greenstone and Routeburn Tracks, but one that we suffer from nonetheless.  Funny how a group of 12 strangers can become one’s family, however fleeting, sharing laughter and meals, squeals of delight at expansive vistas and waterfall sprays, buckets of sunshine and pouring rain, aches and pains and waterproof bandages, and the ever-present “wow” of our surroundings.  To our amazing guides and fellow trekkers, a great big thanks for such a terrific time.

Day 1: Greenstone Track – Trailhead to Steel Creek Lodge (11.2 miles)

Determined to get our feet into the backcountry and even more determined to do so without the weight of a tent on our backs, we signed on for the guided “Grand Traverse”, what we would argue to be the mac-daddy of trekking in the Southern Alps, combining both the Greenstone Track and the Routeburn Track into one long, luxurious trek through New Zealand’s finest valleys, peaks and surprise – lodges!  Not just ordinary huts, mind you, but full on LODGES – the kind we could never afford while working in the States but somehow are affording while we are traveling here unemployed.

Our first day out started a bit on the dodgy side, the skies pouring buckets onto the morning streets of Queenstown, dampening not just our packs but our spirits as well.  Clad in raingear from head to toe, we shuffled our way to the Ultimate Hikes center where we met up with the cast of characters who would become our tramping team of twelve – guides Marky (Kiwi) and Colette (Scottish), Aussies Dena (yes, a second one!), Ros, Claudia, Betty, Donna, and Toby, and Kiwis Mark and Jill.  Ten women and two men, which could only mean one thing: girls in the Men’s room.

It was an imaginative bus ride to the start of the tramp, us imagining what those mountains might look like behind all of the rain and mist.  All that positive thinking was rewarded with the stoppage of the rain as soon as we had completed our morning tea.  This meant that the first serious calorie-burning began with the stripping off of one piece of waterproof gear after another as the kilometers of walking started clicking by.  We weren’t complaining though, only oohing and ahhing at the heavenly forests and fields and waterfalls that marked our path.  Those and the flash flush toilet at our lunch stop.  A flush toilet in the middle of nowhere?  Divine.  And a feat repeated again and again as the days continued on.  Engineering at its best.

As if the scenery weren’t enough, our home for the evening was the “rustic” Steel Creek Lodge.  I think these Ultimate Hikes people don’t understand the definition of “rustic.”  In my book, rustic is not defined by hot showers, flush toilets, mattresses, duvets, wine, beer, and a three course dinner.  If that’s the definition of rustic, then I have no idea how to classify our current existence in our green van and 18 square foot tent.

Day 2:  Greenstone Track – Steel Creek Lodge to McKellar Lodge (9.9 miles)

As with Day 1 of our trek, Day 2 was a beauty, sun shining and sandflies no longer nipping as we headed out on the trail.  Today’s trek continued along the Greenstone Valley where we were treated to the sights and sounds of a fresh river flowing, waterfalls cascading down the mountainsides around us, and another flash flush toilet at lunch.  One could grow accustomed to a life such as this one, particularly given that with every break on the trail, there is Colette pulling a mammoth chocolate bar out of her pack.  Milk chocolate, dark chocolate, kiwi fruit chocolate, orange chocolate … it’s as though we’ve won the Willy Wonka lottery.  You can only guess who consistently went through the receiving line at least twice.

Something else we could grow accustomed to?  These fancy-ass lodges at the end of each day.  Who needs a competetive hut with wet gear strewn about, no elbow room at the gas rings, and one sleeping mat next to another when instead one can enjoy a LODGE, where the lounge alone is the size of penthouse apartment, a guide is there to greet you with cold drinks and nibbles and later serve you a gourmet hot dinner (well, if your guides are as extraordinary as ours), and each sleeping room is stacked high with cozy duvets and pillows?  I say not us.  At least not for these six days.

Day 3:  “Rest Day” at McKellar Lodge

The folks at Ultimate Hikes must have consulted Gina about how to set a “rest day” itinerary for a trekking trip, for there really was no rest upon this day.  It started with the usual feed-me-until-I’m-stuffed-and-happy breakfast followed by a twisting, muddy, wet but beautiful hike to a nearby waterfall.

Because that was not enough strenuous activity for one day and in spite of the fact that our feet had already covered over 21 miles in the two days preceding, we elected to also hike the second option for the day – the 1000+ meter ascent of peak “1538”, standing sentinel over our lodge.  Clearly a page out of Gina’s playbook.  Apparently women named Dena all participate in such crazy efforts, for when queried about who wanted to climb this peak, Aussies Dena and Ros stuck up their hands in earnest as well.  As is evident from the photos, it was worth the mountain goat effort it took to achieve the summit.  Or almost the summit, depending on who you ask.

Day 4:  Greenstone & Routeburn Tracks – McKellar Lodge to Lake Mackenzie Lodge (8.1 miles)

It’s a Sydney day here in the wilderness and by that we mean it’s a day of pouring rain.  Oh rain, rain go away.  But the rain continued on and so did we, out onto the trail that would take us into Fiordland National Park and “The Bog” at the end of the lake.  The Bog was quite the topic of discussion last night.  Our laminated track guide mentioned its presence and we could only wonder and fret over exactly how large this bog would be, given the infinite number of smaller, mud-sucking, feet-soaking bogs we’d passed through (or around, but shhhh, don’t tell Colette) over the preceding three days.  As it turned out, The Bog wasn’t as bad as we had imagined (these things rarely are), but it did claim my right boot as its own, one of the final crossings too wide for me to leap over and too deep for me to have ever thought that leading foot would not get fully submerged.  At least now I could relax into every subsequent puddle and iffy stream crossing, no longer working my brain on overdrive attempting to find a way around.  Nope, just splash right through.  Colette would be proud.

On the positive side of wet feet and wet gear was the presence of spectacular waterfalls nearly everywhere we looked and most everywhere we tramped.  Of particular awe and beauty were Earland Falls.  We have no photo of these falls as it was an exercise in near drowning just to pick our way around the base of its thundering cascades, leaving no real opportunity to stop and take a snap.  Just imagine a water drop on a camera lens and you can see what we saw.  Regardless, there was much delighted whooping as we all passed by, an energetic experience we would have missed had it been a sunny day.  Lemons, meet lemonade.

Speaking of lemonade, there was plenty waiting for us upon arrival at our next five star lodge, where we were enthusiastically greet by the host of the Lake Mackenzie Lodge.  Only two small problems with this:  (1) none of us could understand a single word she said and (2) none of us were sharing her enthusiasm for an outdoor baked goodie and beverage as we stood there cold, tired and sopping wet.  Certainly not a single one of us meant to be rude but could you just tell us where the damn rooms are?  Colette, obviously sensing a near mutiny, came to our rescue with the simple statement “just take any room”, a phrase she repeated with each incoming party.  Nibbles and drinks could wait, we had an unbelievably large and hot clothes drying room to fill.

Once dry, it was time to explore our surroundings and then pick our jaws up off the floor as we toured the main lodge.  We might need to have some Second Skin taped to our chins if Ultimate Hikes keeps this up, each lodge getting more luxurious as we go along.

Day 5:  Routeburn Track – Lake Mackenzie Lodge to Routeburn Falls Lodge (9.2 miles)

Today is the day we need the sun back.  A day of walking above treeline, meaning a day of big views.  And wouldn’t you know it?  The rain spent itself as we readied for our day, making way for bluer skies as we began our stroll through the Enchanted Forest, up and around Ocean Peak, over Harris Saddle, and down to Routeburn Falls.  Thank you, Mother Nature, for this day of respite just when we needed it most.  And thank you, Ultimate Hikes, for having outdone yourself once more with our home for the night.  Seriously, we could stay here forever.

Day 6:  Routeburn Track – Routeburn Falls Lodge to Trail’s End (6.1 miles)

It’s a bittersweet day today.  Bitter for the impending end of our trek, sweet for all of the amazing scenery we have been treated to since we first set foot upon the Greenstone Track and for the company we’ve been fortunate to keep.

Note:  We’ll post more photos as time and internet access allows!