24 July 2014
Mauthausen to Melk, Austria (55 miles; Total = 248 miles)

I’m pretty sure the lady who lives here next to the bike shop is a hoarder, if the five big dogs running around in this filthy outdoor pen are any indication. Shame On Her is what I have to say – these sweet fellas deserve better. That big black one is really showing a lot of interest in Gina’s pannier, teaching us that it’s best not to lean your bike up against a dog pen unless you want that pannier to get peed on. Good thing Gina’s lightning fast or she would have been forking over 8 Euro in the next town to get some laundry done.

We’re at the bike shop in Mauthausen because I am sick of getting flat tires. There was the one on Day 6 during the downpour on the Danube followed by another – yes, another – on Day 7. Technically, that one didn’t go all the way flat while I was riding, but stopping every 6 miles to put more air in my tire and then watching my wheel instead of the scenery wasn’t much better. Two days, two touring tires down. If there’s any touring tire rep reading this blog, I’d be happy to test your product next. In fact, let’s just buy that Bontrager tourer hanging on the rack right now and give it a shot.

New tire on, old one folded up in my pannier, we’re ready to hit the road for the day. The thunderstorms have subsided and the route takes us in and out of trees and towns, the Danube nearly always in view. We end our day in Melk, where I break the news to Gina that the slight wobble I noticed in her rear wheel about 5 miles ago – a sight I kept to myself until now confirmed – is from a broken spoke. The bicycle gremlins have struck again only this time we get the last laugh because a broken spoke at four in the afternoon is a perfect excuse for deciding to stay an extra day in this super cute Gasthof we just checked into. So ha ha, gremlins, you go right ahead and skulk around our bicycles with your evil, greasy little fingers – I’m going to sit on this deck above the cobblestone street and enjoy another glass of wine.